2025

Tailoring in 3D: a Digital Reconstruction of a Seventeenth-century Doublet

Textile History, 54 (1) pp.60-77

This Research Note explores the creation of a digitally animated doublet, based on an archival and material reconstruction of a seventeenth-century Florentine doublet, as a new research methodology for textile scholars. Using Clo3D software to show how 2D pattern pieces are cut and assembled into a highly complex sculptural garment, the animation reveals the artful achievements of early modern tailors and how early modern clothes interact on the body. We examine the possibilities and challenges of digital reconstruction, explaining how we overcame software limitations to create a historically informed animation that renders complex fabrics, patterns, inner layers, and construction processes visible.

2025

Tailoring in 3D: a Digital Reconstruction of a Seventeenth-century Doublet

Textile History, 54 (1) pp.60-77

This Research Note explores the creation of a digitally animated doublet, based on an archival and material reconstruction of a seventeenth-century Florentine doublet, as a new research methodology for textile scholars. Using Clo3D software to show how 2D pattern pieces are cut and assembled into a highly complex sculptural garment, the animation reveals the artful achievements of early modern tailors and how early modern clothes interact on the body. We examine the possibilities and challenges of digital reconstruction, explaining how we overcame software limitations to create a historically informed animation that renders complex fabrics, patterns, inner layers, and construction processes visible.

2024

Crafted for the Digital World: Digitally Realistic Costumes incgFeature Films

Imagining the Impossible: International Journal for the Fantastic in Contemporary Media, Volume 3, Issue 1

The growth of computer-generated (cg) effects in live-action films hasgradually expanded to the creation of digital characters and costumedesign. In many contemporary films, all aspects of characters andcostumes are built digitally. Yet very little is known about the processof designing digital costumes, nor is there a critical theoretical exami-nation of the areas emerging from the practice. This article exploresdigital costume design development using the CG feature filmsAvatarandAvatar: The Way of Wateras case studies.

2024

The embodied experience of costume in digital character creation: Developing body- and material led characters

Studies in Costume & Performance, Vol 9. Special issue Costume Pedagogy.

This article explores how the experience of wearing physical costumes leads to ideas for digital characters’ visual design, movement and dialogue in animation and gaming.

2022

‘Who wants the pressure of being super all the time?’:
Mid-century modern fashions and their influence on costume development in The Incredibles and Incredibles 2

Film, Fashion & Consumption. Vol. 11(1), pp. 91-108

Co-authored article.

In this article, we examine period fashions in character costumes in the two Pixar/Disney computer-animated films, The Incredibles and Incredibles 2. These films have a strong mid-century modern design influence interwoven into the films’ narratives and aesthetic designs.

2022

Representing Renaissance textures and colours digitally

Refashioning the Renaissance project blog

In this blogpost, I discuss how textures and colours are created as digital garments and how beneficial digital animation is for testing different Renaissance fabrics and colours.

2021

Digital character costume design in computer-animated feature films

Aalto ARTS Books

This pioneering study brings attention to the role of costume design in animation. It explores how digitally animated costumes are designed through six exceptional computer-animated film productions that engaged a costume designer (Shrek, Shrek 2, Shrek the Third, Puss in Boots, Monster House, Big Hero 6).

2021

Glamour: Famous Gowns of the Silver Screen

Studies in Costume & Performance, Vol 6 (2)

Exhibition review, Serlachius Museum Gustaf, Mänttä
26 September 2020‐10 January 2021
Curated by Cornelia Bujin, Italo Nunziata and Hannu Palosuo

2021 

There is a new profession in animation town

This blog post brought awareness of the importance of costume design and costume designer in animation.

2021

Character costume portrayal and the multi-layered process of costume design in Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs

Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. New Perspectives on Production, Reception, Legacy. Pallant, C. and Holliday C. (ed’s), London: Bloomsbury Academic. pp. 79-95.

2020

Reconstructing the Minute Material of Early Modern Textiles: Maarit Kalmakurki on Clothing and Textile Studies in the Digital Age

Manchester University, Microscopic Records

This post explored some of the methodological choices of digital reconstruction of historical clothing.

2018

Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, Cinderella and Sleeping Beauty. The Components of Costume Design in Disney’s Early Hand-drawn Animations.

Animation: An Interdisciplinary Journal. Vol 13(1) pp.7-19

This article explored elements of costume design in the three classic Disney films. Article can be downloaded from HERE

2018

Virtuaaliset hahmot, digitaaliset puvut. Pukusuunnittelu 3D-animaatioelokuvien tuotannoissa

Lähikuva. Vol 31 (4), pp.80-89.

Tämä artikkeli on ensimmäinen suomenkielinen tutkimus jossa esitellään digitaalisten hahmojen pukusuunnittelun osa-alueita tietokoneanimaatioelokuvissa.

2017

The King and His Costumes. Discoveries in the archives of Gustaf III of Sweden

TD&T. Vol. 53(4), pp.39-51

For this article, I conducted archival research in the Royal Armory and Royal Opera in Stockholm. This work presents rare visual materials and analyses costumes during the reign of Gustaf III of Sweden (1746-1792).